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Lillehammer Norway December 9-12, 2004
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Home
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I almost learned to skijump in Norway. Except that (a) I landed on my backside and (b) my guide told
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Click to enlarge
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Killing seal pups and whales isn't the only thing Norwegians do well. The country has great skiing and winter sports facilities, too. Lillehammer is a nice town (not a small dinky ski-resort shanty village) and really easy to get to, just two hours by plane and a further hour by train from Dublin -- about the same time it takes to drive to Cork. It gets dark early, so you have to make the most of every second of sunlight.
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Hafjell, Saturday, 2.09pm -- A crosscut from blue to black. (Michael's picture)
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Click to enlarge
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Closed, schmlosed -- there's no such thing as 'off-limits' when you're insured up to the hilt. Michael and I took this dodgy run -- there were trees sprouting up from the unkempt snowdrifts -- on Saturday afternoon. We both fell flat on our faces a couple of times. It was hilarious.
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Preparing to walk on the wild side, Norwegian style (minus the whole whale-killing thing)
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Home
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Friday was foggy on most of the mountain. Above the cloud/fogline, though, nearer the top, it was magical. You could see for miles around before skiing down into the mist. There was some racing going on, hardly surprising given Lillehammer staged the Olympics.
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Michael and Asgeir watch the slalom racing
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Watching one of the downhill slalom races near the top. Michael and I raced when they were finished. I came second.
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Click to enlarge
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Guerillas in the mist
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Ollie and Camilla ate and drank with us and taught the beginners in our group (Gavin and Brian). Ollie used to be a ski-jumper until he broke his back. These days he trains British Royal Marines in skiing techniques and survival. Camilla is a kindergarten teacher.
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Ollie and Camilla. That lump under Ollie's upper lip is a wedge of tobacco that Norwegians call snoose. It has five times the nicotine levels of cigarettes and is banned in the EU. But hey -- so is clubbing seals
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The boys
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Saturday, 10.45am: Asgeir and Michael get ready for a day's skiing which would see jumps, crashes, cuts and bruises
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Gavin, rather ambitiously, tries to capture the splendour with a cameraphone
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Brian and Ollie on a snowmobile -- Brian was a beginner and needed a lift to see the top of the mountain
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Michael and I at the top
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Me, trying to beat the snowmobile -- from which this picture was taken -- down the mountain
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Afternoon light
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The last bit of sun before our last ski-run of the weekend. Michael took this one, too.
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Home
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Bobsleigh
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(I'm the one in the middle with one hand up)
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Home
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me he broke his back doing what
I'd done. After that, I confined the
Bond carry-on to runs down closed
trails.
I was at a resort called Hafjell in
Lillehammer, home of the 1994
winter Olympics. I was doing
important work for the paper,
writing a travel piece.
Aside from skiing, I inspected the
bobsleigh run (at 61mph), shot
rifles and drank until 3am in a bar
called Nikkers. This last activity
prompted an unfortunate remark
when I was asked by a female
skier as to what the plan was later
one evening: "I'll probably be in
Nikkers," I said.
"I'd say you will alright," was the tart
reply.
On the same trip were Brian
(Newstalk 106), Gavin (Directski),
Michael Collins (publisher and
editor of Abroad and Backpacker
magazines), Julian Bohan (Sunday
Independent) and Karla Elliott
(Sunday Independent) with her 6
year old daughter, Emily.
We had great local guides in Geir,
Asgeir, Ollie and Camilla.